Princess Cut Engagement Rings: How to Choose Ratio, Setting and Stone

Princess cut engagement rings are a great fit if you love a crisp, modern square shape with brilliant sparkle. The key to buying one well is protecting its four pointed corners, choosing a length-to-width ratio you like, and pairing the stone with a setting that suits your lifestyle. Here's what US shoppers should know before choosing a princess cut ring.

What is a princess cut diamond?

A princess cut is a square or slightly rectangular stone with sharp, pointed corners and a brilliant-style faceting pattern underneath. When you look down at it, you'll often see a cross or "X" pattern of light that runs corner to corner.

It's the most popular square shape for engagement rings because it combines clean, geometric lines with much of the sparkle people love in a round brilliant. It suits minimalist solitaires just as well as vintage-inspired Art Deco designs.

Princess cut vs round: how they compare

• Look: Round is soft and classic; princess is architectural and modern.
• Sparkle: Both are brilliant cuts. Round is generally considered the most brilliant shape, while a well-cut princess comes close with a bolder, more angular flash.
• Durability: Round has no corners to protect. A princess cut's points need a protective setting (more on that below).
• Stacking: Princess cut rings pair naturally with straight bands and channel-set wedding bands because the straight sides line up neatly.

How to choose the right princess cut stone

1. Check the ratio. Most shoppers prefer a princess cut that looks square, which means a length-to-width ratio close to 1.00. A slightly higher ratio gives a subtly rectangular look. Ask for the measurements and decide which you prefer.
2. Look at the corners. Make sure all four corners are intact and crisp, with no chips. Corners are the most exposed part of the stone.
3. Prioritize cut quality. A well-proportioned princess cut shows an even, bright pattern without large dark areas in the center.
4. Choose your color comfort level. Princess cuts are brilliant cuts, which tend to mask color better than step cuts like the emerald cut. If you're setting the stone in yellow gold, warm metal can also make a near-colorless stone look perfectly white in context.
5. Ask about certification. For lab grown diamond center stones, ask us about IGI certification so you have an independent report on the stone's grades.

Best settings for princess cut engagement rings

The setting matters more with a princess cut than with almost any other shape, because it has to guard the corners.

• Four-prong solitaire: A classic choice. Look for prongs placed directly over each corner (V-shaped or claw prongs are ideal) so the points are covered.
• Cathedral setting: The center stone sits on arches that sweep up from the band, giving it height and presence on the hand.
• Pavé band: Small stones along the band add extra sparkle and frame the square center beautifully.
• Three stone: Side stones such as kites or trapezoids echo the princess cut's angles for a geometric, balanced look.
• Bezel: A metal rim around the stone gives the most corner protection and suits active lifestyles. Read our bezel vs prong setting guide to compare the two.
• East-west: Turning the square on its side or using a bypass design gives a fresh, fashion-forward twist.

Lab grown diamond or moissanite?

Every princess cut ring in our collection can be chosen with a lab grown diamond or a moissanite center stone.

• Lab grown diamond: Chemically and physically a diamond, rating 10 on the Mohs hardness scale. Its sparkle is classic diamond brilliance with white and colored light. Shop our princess cut lab grown diamond jewelry.
• Moissanite: Very hard (9.25 on the Mohs scale) and known for strong, rainbow-like fire. It's the more budget-friendly option and an excellent choice for a larger look. Browse princess cut moissanite jewelry.

Both are durable enough for everyday wear, so the choice mostly comes down to the look you love and your budget.

Picking the metal

White gold and platinum-toned metals make a princess cut look icy and modern. Yellow gold gives it a warm, vintage-leaning feel and pairs beautifully with pavé bands. Rose gold reads soft and romantic against the sharp square shape. If you're deciding between gold karats, consider durability and color: 14K is harder and more budget-friendly, while 18K has a richer gold color.

Caring for a princess cut ring

• Take it off for heavy lifting, gardening, gym workouts and anything where the corners could knock against hard surfaces.
• Check the prongs every few months. If a corner prong looks lifted or worn, have it tightened before the stone loosens.
• Clean it at home with warm water, a drop of mild dish soap and a soft toothbrush, especially under the stone where lotion builds up.
• Store it separately so harder jewelry doesn't scratch it and it doesn't scratch softer pieces.

Shop princess cut engagement rings

Each ring is handcrafted to order and ships with free insured US shipping, plus 30-day returns.

Prefer a different silhouette? Explore our lab grown diamond solitaire rings or browse all lab grown diamond engagement rings. Not sure of her size yet? Our guide on choosing the right ring size without ruining the surprise can help.

Frequently asked questions

Do princess cut diamonds chip easily?

Their pointed corners are the most vulnerable part of the stone, so they can chip if struck hard. A setting with prongs over each corner, or a bezel, protects them well for everyday wear.

Are princess cut engagement rings out of style?

No. Princess cuts remain a classic square shape, and modern settings like east-west, kite three stone and pavé bands keep them feeling current.

Does a princess cut look bigger than a round?

It depends on the stone's proportions and how it's set. A princess cut's corner-to-corner diagonal is longer than its sides, so it can read as large on the hand, especially in a slim setting.

What wedding band goes with a princess cut engagement ring?

Straight bands sit flush against most princess cut settings. Channel-set princess bands echo the square shape, while a simple plain band keeps the focus on the center stone.

Ready to find your square? Shop princess cut lab grown diamond rings, each handcrafted to order with free insured US shipping.